Indian Fashion Tradition, Innovation, Style

Arti Sandhu’s book Indian Fashion Tradition, Innovation, Style discuses how combining traditional clothing global trends have resulted into the popularity of the Indo-Western style. Such fusion not only helps Indian women to style themselves by being at par with societal pressures, it also allows them to be a part of the larger network of the global fashion, yet simultaneously maintain a sense of distinction. This supports the  Although the book provides insight on the emerging fashion landscape in India, it fails to elaborate on the reasons behind the emerged adaptability towards fusion fashion and the production processes.

Editorial photoshoot : Experimenting with the versatility of a Sari

I collaborated with a photography student from LCC – Nemo, a BA make up student from LCF – Izzy, two models who I met at India Fashion Week in London – Lilly and Hira, Jessi, Fiorella, Firda, Yve and Ana for this shoot. My aim was to capture the grandeur, drama, versatility and adaptability of an Indian Sari.

Here are a few behind the scene images from the shoot :

Shoot day! East meets West?

I need to narrow down that topic! Make it more specific in the Fashion context I guess…

After I started reading books pertaining to my wider research topic(Indian fashion, culture, stereotypes, social needs, etc), there was one thing which was constantly mentioned in the books about how Indian designers and women are modernising the Sari to make it look more different from how it is traditionally draped.

In my short film, the protagonist wears a Sari with a bomber jacket and sneakers, it is exactly the style that I am planning to explore. After my tutorial with Ellie I have realised that I am making the Sari look as an identity itself and giving it a character instead of just portraying it as a traditional garment in the editorial photoshoot.

The Sari – becomes like a character – changing face of the garment – adaptable, flexible, traditional, modern, pop culture.

I am collaborating with a variety of fellow creatives for my photoshoot. My photographer is an MA Photography student at LCC, one of my make up artists is from BA Make up at LCF. Two models I met at the India Fashion Week in London, my friends Fiorella, Jessi, Yve, Ana and Firda from class!

I am going to showcase a story about Indian Fashion (Sari) in a ‘different light’ – by adding a personal touch as the Saris used in my shoot are from my moms personal collection. None of them are purchased from commercial stores. All of them are one of a kind, either handwoven or hand embroidered by local artists in India.

East meets West

What is India’s style today? Designers in India are fusing contrasting identities to create new styles.

How does an Indian millennial working woman wear a Sari today?

Do millennial Indian women modernise a Sari for an alternative form of Indian expression?

How can a Sari be used to create an edgier look for young urban Indian women today?

Its craft fused with pop culture and internationalism. 

For instance young women in India are redefining the look of a Sari – the most classic Indian ensemble. The Sari today is a symbol of nationality, identity, modernity, tradition and adaptability for an Indian woman. It has transformed into a look of a contemporary garment because of cross cultural influences. 

Project name: East meets West

The shoot will showcase Indian saris in different variations. I want to portray a Sari in a versatile look rather than just a traditional garment that can be wrapped around by fusing it with contemporary designs.

Moodboard
Moodboard

23rd November : Tests for short film

I rented Canon 550D camera, Arri 300 plus light, a monopod and RODE Videomic pro. Canon 24 – 70 mm, 100 mm and 17-40mm lenses. I took a few test shots in my apartment and building to figure out the frames that I wanted to shoot.

As a recce for the outdoor scenes,I walked around Baker street and Marylebone village to look for a quite and vibrant street. Also, I planned t o shoot in symmetrical frames.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Screen-Shot-2019-11-26-at-11.41.14-AM.png

24th November : Shoot day

I am shooting an Over The Shoulder scene when Ana is saying a dialogue.

The call time was 9 am for Jack, the lead actress – Niyati and me. Jack helped me set frames for shooting the film. He taught me about capturing the mood with a camera. I asked him how I could shoot the scenes where I wanted Niyati to seem powerful and confident.

I had one Arri 300 light which stopped working 30 minutes after we started taking the test shots. Then we managed to get table lamps from store rooms in my building so that we could shoot in good light. Lesson learnt – anything can happen on shoot day! we need to be prepared and keep going on somehow!

The first and the second scenes were easy to shoot as they were indoor. I wanted to capture Niyati looking nostalgic on her bed and answering a call from her friend. After that we shot on the staircase to show her leaving home confidently, these were difficult to shoot without the light. I changed the angles and frames that Jack and I decided on so that I could capture Niyati in a well lit frame. I tried to shoot in symmetrical frames as much as possible.

One of the most challenging shots were the ones in which Niyati had to get ready in front of the mirror. I had to make sure we didn’t capture any glares or reflections in the shot.

The outdoor scenes were not easy, as it was a Sunday, there were many people on the street. We shot at Marylebone lane near the Marylebone village. None of the cast and crew members – Niyati, Jess, Fiorella, Firda, Ana and Taanya are actors or filmmakers so we were all doing something for the first time and ended up having fun! Love them so much!! (Firda was holding the mic)

The overall experience was really good, I learnt so much about directing and filming! Also, that it’s not easy to do both the jobs, especially while shooting outdoors.

What is India’s style?

I’m reading an article about India’s national style today.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/culture/story/20151103-beyond-the-sari-what-is-indian-style-today

Its about how Indians are re-imagining their Indianness to include our textile heritage, and create a modern look for themselves. As part of its India season, London’s V&A museum is showcasing Indian textiles in The Fabric of India exhibition. It includes contemporary examples of how traditional textiles are defining the aesthetics of high fashion, writes Phyllida Jay.

Designers in India are fusing contrasting identities to create new styles. It intrigues me because I am planning to do something similar with my fashion shoot by using saris exclusively handwoven in India.

1:1 Tutorials

The tutorials with Ellie and Vicky made me realise that I need to merge the two research questions that I have framed.

Whether it’s a fashion show or an unique in store experience, do high fashion brands have to ‘go viral’ to grab millennials’ attentions today ? And Why does the gap between the reality and perceptions about these cultures and fashion of India exist? Is it because of the cultural appropriation of Indians by Indians themselves? 

I used the 5W’s and 1H to narrow them down

  • Who?
  • When?
  • Where?
  • Why?
  • and How?

I have done some free stream writing to figure out which areas I want to explore and picked up key topics that I would like to explore, and I’ve come up with this so far:

For my research methods project I would like to write about:

Why Indian women (aged 18 to 25) living in London tend to detach from their culture (in terms of how they dress up and try to speak in an accent) to feel more socially acceptable?

Supporting questions : Is it because of the gap in the perceptions and the reality about India? Is it  because of cultural appropriation of Indians by Indians? Why are Indians stereotyped in the West?

For Fashion Media Laboratory :

I want to produce substantial pieces of media which would highlight Indian Fashion and culture in a different light. 

To do that – 

I’m working on creating a short film which is focused on a story that shows cultural appropriation of Indians by Indians in London. 

and

An editorial story which will showcase Indian fabrics in a new light by dressing up models in Saris but not in the traditional way. It will be focused on the drama, colours and the fabrics of the Saris rather than the way its draped.